Bret Fowler Collection of Irenes
Born in 1968, Bret Fowler was raised in San Diego and studied fashion design and tailoring at the Fashion Institute of Technology in NYC. After college Bret became a member of the curatorial staff in the Costume Department of the Museum at F.I.T. for 10 years. The last six years of his tenure, Bret worked as Curatorial Assistant, conducting private research appointments as well as an hour lecture for students and visiting tour groups on the history and construction of couture clothing.
In 2002 Bret met his partner Chris Stoeckel, a talented one-of-a-kind doll artist and former Fashion Co-ordinator for the windows department at Lord & Taylor’s flagship store in Manhattan. Bret moved from NYC, to his partner’s hometown of Stroudsburg, Pennsylvania, where they owned a vintage clothing boutique for 6 years. Currently Bret works as a free-lance restoration artist specializing in 20th century couture clothing, as well as doing consultation work for museums and private collectors.
Having grown up in Southern California, Bret was always interested in designers with a California connection such as Adrian, Edith Head and Bonnie Cashin. As a student at FIT he was introduced to the work of Irene and fell in love with her unique blend of immaculate soft tailoring and chic feminine styling. Over the past 7 years Bret has been building his own private collection, and is proud to include 46 garments from his favorite designer Irene, as well as works from Bonnie Cashin, Traina-Norell, Claire McCardell, Adrian, and Pierre Balmain.
From the Private Collection of Bret Fowler: LATE DAY SUIT, c.1947-1952 CHARCOAL AND YELLOW HEATHERED WOOL STRIPE JACKET, (POSSIBLY POLA STOUT HAND-WOVEN FABRIC) ASSYMETRICAL FRONT CLOSURE w/ MITERED BUTTON TAB, COORDINATING CHARCOAL HEATHERED WOOL SKIRT LABELED "IRENE" AND "28 SHOP, MARSHALL FEILD & COMPANY" (INTERESTING NOTE ON IRENE'S ATTENTION TO DETAIL, THE BUTTON HOLES ARE BOUND TO MATCH CENTER OF THE ADJACENT STRIPE)
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From the Private Collection of Bret Fowler: SEMI-FITTED DAY SUIT, 1950'S RED AND BLACK STRIPED WOOL w/ MITERED BODY PANELS AND COLLAR LABELED "IRENE EXCLUSIVELY FOR HARZFELD'S"
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From the Private Collection of Bret Fowler: DAY SUIT, c.1950-1955 BEIGE/TAN/GREY MITERED WOOL STRIPE LABELED "IRENE EXCLUSIVE WITH STIX, BAER & FULLER"
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From the Private Collection of Bret Fowler: DRAPED COCKTAIL DRESS, c. 1947-1952 BLACK SILK MARQUISETTE OVER BLACK SATIN-BACK CREPE LABELED “IRENE EXCLUSIVELY FOR RANSOHOFFS, SAN FRANCISCO”
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From the Private Collection of Bret Fowler: LATE DAY SUIT, c.1949-1955 BLACK WOOL TWILL w/ GOLD AND BEIGE HORIZONTAL STRIPES UNDER TIERED FLANGES LABELED "IRENE EXCLUSIVELY FOR NEIMAN-MARCUS, DALLAS"
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From the Private Collection of Bret Fowler: DAY DRESS, c.1947-1952 BLACK WOOL FLANNEL w/ CHALK STRIPE DOUBLE-BREASTED FRONT CLOSURE EXAGGERATED COLLAR, BIAS BANDED TRIM ATTACHED HIGH-WAISTED SKIRT w/ HIDDEN CENTER FRONT ZIPPER LABELED "IRENE" AND "JENNY, CINCINNATI"
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From the Private Collection of Bret Fowler: DAY SUIT, c. 1949-1955 HEATHERED GREY WOOL TWILL HIP POCKETS ACCENTUATED w/ CURVED VERTICAL POCKET FLAPS LABELED "IRENE" AND "28 SHOP, MARSHALL FEILD & COMPANY"
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From the Private Collection of Bret Fowler: DAY SUIT, c.1950-1956 BEIGE/CHARTREUSE/BLACK WIDOWPANE CHECK WOOL w/ COORDINATING CHARTREUSE WOOL REVERS AND CUFFS BIAS COVERTIBLE COLLAR AND HIP BAND w/ EXTENDED BUTTON TABS LABELED "IRENE" AND "28 SHOP, MARSHALL FIELD & COMPANY"
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From the Private Collection of Bret Fowler: DAY SUIT, c.1947-1955 BLUE AND BLACK CHECKED WOOL LOWER SIDE PANELS PEAK AT APEX CURVING DOWN TOWARDS CENTER FRONT WAIST IN EXTENDED BUTTON TABS LARGE BOUND BUTTON HOLES TACKED AT CENTERS w/TWO SMALL PLASTIC BUTTONS LINED IN 3 SHADES OF BLUE CHINA SILK LABELED "IRENE EXCLUSIVELY FOR HARZFELD'S" THIS SUIT HAS BEEN FOUND IN 3 KNOWN COLOR VARIATIONS, THIS BLUE AND BLACK CHECK WITH PLASTIC BUTTONS (FOR HARZFELD'S) A MEDIUM GREY CHECK ALSO WITH PLASTIC BUTTONS (FOR NEIMAN-MARCUS) AND A PALE DOVE GREY FLANNEL w/SELF FABRIC BUTTONS (UNKNOWN RETAILER)
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From the Private Collection of Bret Fowler: SPRING-SUMMER DAY DRESS, c.1950-1955 PINK SILK CREPE w/ CENTER FRONT ZIPPER HAND-STICHED APPLIED BAND AT HIPLINE INVERTED BOX PLEAT CENTER BACK SKIRT LABELED "IRENE EXCLUSIVELY FOR BULLOCKS-WILSHIRE"
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From the Private Collection of Bret Fowler: DAY SUIT, c.1947-1955 BLUE CHECKED WOOL 3/4 LENGTH JACKET w/BIAS BAND AT HIPS DEEP SIDE VENTS PROVIDE ACCESS TO BOUND POCKETS ON SKIRT LABELED "IRENE"
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From the Private Collection of Bret Fowler: DAY DRESS, c.1947-1952 RUST WOOL FLANNEL w/ 5 LARGE SELF FABRIC COVERED BUTTONS CENTER FRONT TOP TWO BUTTONS ARE DECORATIVE AND CORRESPONDING BOUND BUTTON HOLES WERE NEVER CUT THROUGH FACING LABELED "IRENE EXCLUSIVELY FOR FREDERICK & NELSON, SEATTLE"
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From the Private Collection of Bret Fowler: SPRING-SUMMER DAY DRESS, c.1947-1955 TAN AND WHITE CHECKED SILK TWILL LABELED "IRENE EXCLUSIVELY FOR RANSOHOFFS, SAN FRANCISCO"
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From the Private Collection of Bret Fowler: LATE DAY SUIT, c. 1947-1952 BLACK AND BROWN VERTICAL STRIPED WOOL SKIRT HAS 5 LONG VERTICAL TUCKS ON EACH SIDE RELEASED 8 INCHES FROM HEM FORMING MUTIPLE FRONT KICK PLEATS LABELED "IRENE EXCLUSIVELY FOR NEIMAN-MARCUS, DALLAS"
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From the Private Collection of Bret Fowler: DAY SUIT, c. 1952-1957 BLACK AND WHITE HOUND'S TOOTH CHECK WOOL WIDE SHAPED BIAS TRIM w/ 3 DECORATIVE BUTTONS AND BOUND BUTTON HOLES AT NECK LABELED "IRENE EXCLUSIVELY FOR BULLOCKS-WILSHIRE"
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From the Private Collection of Bret Fowler: DAY SUIT, c.1947-1955 ROSEWOOD COLORED WOOL TWILL LARGE GRADUATED BOUND BUTTON HOLES AT BUST w/ REPLACEMENT WOOD BUTTONS ORIGINALLY THIS SUIT HAD 3 HEAVY GOLD BUTTONS w/ROSEWOOD AND GOLD INLAYS ONLY ONE ORIGINAL BUTTON INSERT WAS FOUND INSIDE POCKET LABELED "IRENE EXCLUSIVELY FOR BULLOCKS-WILSHIRE"
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From the Private Collection of Bret Fowler: DAY SUIT, c.1947-1952 BROWN AND PALE GREY FINE WOOL TWILL INSET PANEL OF INVERTED PLEATS FORMS KICK PLEAT AT BACK OF SKIRT LABELED "IRENE EXCLUSIVELY FOR BULLOCKS-WILSHIRE"
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From the Private Collection of Bret Fowler: DAY SUIT, c. 1952-1957 BLACK AND WHITE HOUND'S TOOTH CHECK WOOL BIAS BANDS WITH PEAKED ENDS FORM STYLIZED LAPELS AT NECKLINE BIAS BAND REPEATED ON CENTER FRONT OF SKIRT WITH EXTENDED PEAK AT HEMLINE LABELED "IRENE EXCLUSIVELY FOR NEIMAN-MARCUS, DALLAS"
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From the Private Collection of Bret Fowler: LATE DAY DRESS, c.1957-1962 BLACK WOOL w/ 2 LARGE PLASTIC BUTTONS ON HIPS (GARMENT STILL RETAINS IT'S ORIGINAL PINK "IRENE INC." HANG TAG w/STYLE NUMBER AND SIZE, ALONG w/ ORIGINAL RED "MAISON BLANCHE" PRICE TAG) LABELED "IRENE EXCLUSIVIELY FOR MAISON BLANCHE, NEW ORLEANS"
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From the Private Collection of Bret Fowler: COCKTAIL SUIT, c.1947 -1952 BLACK RAW SILK w/ UNUSUAL BONED STAY ON OUTER EDGE OF COLLAR LABELED "IRENE EXCLUSIVELY FOR GUNTHER JAECKEL, NEW YORK"
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From the Private Collection of Bret Fowler: COCKTAIL DRESS AND JACKET, c.1955-1960 BLACK SILK FAILLE w/ MULTIPLE TIERED PEPLUMS LABELED "IRENE EXCLUSIVELY FOR NEIMAN-MARCUS"
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From the Private Collection of Bret Fowler: COCKTAIL DRESS, c.1947-1955 BLACK SILK CREPE w/ CURVED STYLELINES LABELED "IRENE"
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From the Private Collection of Bret Fowler. DAY DRESS AND JACKET, c 1950-1957 TAUPE RAW SILK SLEEVELESS DRESS WITH INSET BANDS OF WHITE AND CORAL SILK MATCHING BOX JACKET WITH SHAPED INSET OF WHITE SILK AT NECKLINE AND CORAL SILK BAND INSIDE AT EDGE OF FACING (DRESS WAS LET OUT AND NEEDS TO BE RE-FIT ON SIDE SEAMS) LABELED "IRENE" AND "28 SHOP, MARSHALL FIELD & COMPANY"
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From the Private Collection of Bret Fowler. COAT, c.1950-1957 YELLOW, BLACK, AND GREY WOOL TWEED w/ INSET OF BLACK KIDSKIN ON COLLAR LABELED "IRENE EXCLUSIVELY FOR BULLOCKS-WILSHIRE"
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From the Private Collection of Bret Fowler. 3 pc. DAY SUIT, c.1957-1962 GREEN, BLUE, AND BLACK NOVELTY WOVEN RAW SILK w/ PEACOCK BLUE SATIN-BACK CREPE BLOUSE GRADUATED SQUARE NECKLINES HAVE APPLIED TRIM w/ EXTENDED TABS PASSING THROUGH BOUND BUTTON HOLES SIMILAR TECHNIQUE USED AT CUFFS LABELED "IRENE" AND "FROST BROS."
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From the Private Collection of Bret Fowler. AY DRESS AND CAPE, c.1957-1962 RED AND HUNTER GREEN WOOL PLAID LABELED "IRENE"
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From the Private Collection of Bret Fowler. DAY SUIT, c.1950-1957 BROWN AND TAN HORIZONTAL STRIPED WOOL, 3/4 LENGTH BOX JACKET w/ MITERED POCKET FLAPS AND DECORATIVE BAND AT HIPS, LABELED "IRENE"
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From the Private Collection of Bret Fowler. LATE DAY SUIT, c.1949-1955 BLACK, BLUE, AND BROWN SILK AND WOOL NOVELTY WEAVE w/3 CONICAL SELF FABRIC BUTTONS LABELED "IRENE"
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From the Private Collection of Bret Fowler. COCKTAIL DRESS, c. 1952-1957 BLACK SILK SATIN-BACK CREPE w/ HAND APPLIQUED TRIM CUT FROM REVERSE SIDE OF FABRIC LABELED "IRENE EXCLUSIVELY FOR BULLOCKS-WILSHIRE"
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From the Private Collection of Bret Fowler. DAY SUIT, c.1950-1957 TAN, BROWN, AND BLACK SILK AND LINEN CHECK w/ APPLIED BIAS SQUARE TRIM AT SHOULDERS LABELED "IRENE EXCLUSIVELY FOR LICHTENSTEIN'S, CORPUS CHRISTI, TEXAS"
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From the Private Collection of Bret Fowler. COCKTAIL SUIT, c.1950-1957 IRIDESCENT BLUE AND BLACK SILK MATELASSE w/ SMALL STYLIZED FLANGES INSET IN SEAM LINES LABELED "IRENE EXCLUSIVELY FOR BULLOCKS-WILSHIRE"
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From the Private Collection of Bret Fowler. DAY SUIT, c.1947-1952 ROSE TAUPE NOVELTY STRIPED WOOL DECORATIVE BUTTONS OF AGATE CABOCHONS IN SILVER MOUNTS LABELED "IRENE EXCLUSIVELY FOR HARZFELD'S"
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From the Private Collection of Bret Fowler. LATE DAY SUIT, c.1950-1955 NAVY WOOL PIPED IN SILK SATIN LABELED "IRENE"
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From the Private Collection of Bret Fowler. DAY SUIT, c. 1952-1957 BURGUNDY NOVELTY WEAVE WOOL HIP LENGTH BOX JACKET w/ 8 PLASTIC BUTTONS, LABELED "IRENE"
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From the Private Collection of Bret Fowler. DAY SUIT, c.1947-1952 CORAL, MELON, AND BLACK TEXTURED WOOL GRADUATED NOVELTY BUTTONS OF CORAL AND BLACK SWIRLED PLASTIC SEWN ON WITH SMALL STRIPS OF BLACK SILK TWILL TAPE LABELED "IRENE EXCLUSIVELY FOR NEUSTETER'S, DENVER"
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From the Private Collection of Bret Fowler. DAY SUIT, c.1957-1962 PINK SLUBBED SILK AND LINEN 3/4 LENGTH JACKET w/ SCALLOPED WELT POCKETS, LABELED "IRENE"
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From the Private Collection of Bret Fowler. DAY DRESS, c.1947-1955 HEATHERED GREY TEXTURED WOOL DOUBLE BREASTED BUST OVER HANDPICKED CENTER FRONT ZIPPER BACK HIP YOKE CUT IN ONE AS EXTENSION OF FRONT SIDE PANEL LABELED "IRENE" AND "28 SHOP, MARSHALL FEILD & CO."
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About Irene
Irene is my grand-aunt, and admired for her work in women's fashion and Hollywood costume design. Her talent as a successful clothing designer in Los Angeles led to her long career as a costume designer for many great films in Hollywood.. until her sudden death in 1962. I hope you enjoy your visit.. ~ Karlyn
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